Backpacking the Porkies!

The Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, otherwise known as "the Porkies," lies on the southwestern shore of Lake Superior in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. It contains not only the beautiful shores of Lake Superior but also some rare virgin forest. While the park's title mentions mountains, the peaks are technically not mountains with the highest peak topping out at 1,958 feet. But these peaks can still challenge many a hiker or backpacker that wants a workout. The name "porcupine" is derived from the descriptions the first Natives gave to the appearance of the ridges that sloped to the lake. Initially the area was noted to have abundant hunting and trapping opportunities for the fur trade. When this became less lucrative, the settlers turned to mining copper and timber production. A park was made in 1941to preserve some of the remaining old growth timber in the area with the final act establishing it as a wilderness park in 1972. 

I knew very little about the Porkies when I decided I wanted to visit. I talked with my daughter, Amy, about possibly backpacking in the park. This is a favorite pastime of hers and something I have enjoyed in years past, so we were both excited to plan a trip. We settled on a loop trail of approximately 28 miles along Lake Superior Trail, Little Carp River Trail, to Mirror Lake and Lake of the Clouds before returning. This would take us 5 days walking and 4 nights in the backcountry. We arrived late on a Sunday evening and stayed in an established campground the first night with plans for an early start the following day. 

It had rained on us on the trip there and for a short time after arriving. I learned days later that certain winds and rain will bring in the black flies. And conditions must have been ideal for them because they were swarming everywhere. 

Undaunted, we arose fairly early, went for breakfast and then checked into the Ranger Station to notify them and obtain our tags. Then we were off to the trailhead for our adventure. 

   

        

 

The park is a beautiful place, and the backcountry sites are pretty private. The first two we stayed at were right on Lake Superior. The trails were the worse for a rainy spring and summer, so we spent over half our time trying to stay out of the mud which was the soupiest mud I've ever had traipse through. We found it to be pretty much impossible to avoid even jumping from rock to root to rock to root!

By the second morning I realized I had overestimated my backpacking abilities. What once I could easily do was not so easy anymore! The hiking was more difficult due to the mud and this may have contributed somewhat to my achy, tired body. Add in a few hundred thousand mosquitos, sleeping on the ground, and an injury to my pride (I fell like a turtle on it's back in the mud), and I was ready to announce on day 3 that I needed to find a trailhead before we got so deep in the forest we had no options. My daughter had been worrying about me (or my abilities) and agreed. A review of the map and we walked to the nearest trailhead about 4 miles away. 

Next, we encountered the problem of getting back to the original trailhead where our car was parked. One problem at a time. Did I mention that there is almost no cell service in the Porkies? Fortunately, my daughter has an emergency satellite communicator, and she was able to contact her husband back home. After about 2 hours an elderly man named Jim arrived to take us to our car. The Porkies is a big wilderness park with few roads, so we had to drive around the perimeter of the park to return, taking about an hour and a half. I learned a lot of information about the area firsthand from Jim who had lived there all his life running a wrecker service. We finally made it back to our car, found lodging in a nearby hotel for the night, showered, ate and generally felt much better. 

Still feeling guilty that I was a quitter, I wanted to hike the next day to see the Lake of the Clouds, one of the features the park is known for. So, refreshed from a good night's sleep we drove back to the same trailhead to walk the end of the trail we had previously planned. It was a beautiful day and we enjoyed walking on dry trails, picking wild blueberries to snack on, and taking photos at the many beautiful overlooks to the lake. 

Another restful night and we packed up to begin heading home. Our first stop was going to be at Lambeau Field in Green Bay, Wisconsin. My daughter has long been a Packers fan and I couldn't imagine traveling so close and not stopping to check it out. 

We were anxious to get home to the rest of the family after this. It was a very special trip despite the black flies, mosquitoes, muddy trails, etc. I'm not sure what memories my daughter will keep from this, but it will definitely be memorable!

I should never say never but, when I quit, I thought that would be my last backpacking attempt. Today I'm not so sure. I may give it a go again if the conditions are right and it's good company. Until then I think I'll stick to my pilgrimage walks where I have a bed every night and food every few miles!

For park reservations call 1-800-44PARKS 24 hours before arrival 

or online www.midnrreservations.com

You can reserve sites 6 months in advance. Campsites, cabins, yurts, and backcountry sites are all available. 

Roadtripping in a Campervan !

 I've begun a new type of adventure this summer and it's something I've been wanting to do for some time. I've bought an older model camper van. I'd been looking at websites now and then and, of course, watching a lot of YouTube videos on the topic. A few years ago I almost bought one but the deal seemed a little shady and the camper was not in the best condition. Since that time I would randomly get online and check out Craigslist or other sites looking for something that suited my needs. Just after Memorial Day I was looking again and noted that a 2006 Chevy Roadtrek was up for sale in Nashville. Knowing that these are never on the market long I quickly made arrangements to go see it and within 3 days I was driving it home. Quite a few friends said I had to name it. Never having named a vehicle before I was a little unsure. But I came up with a name that I think fits her very well, Rhoda. 

There are some things I've been fixing up or replacing but overall the van is in good condition. I have also been putting some of my camping supplies in it to have it road ready quickly should I want to go. Now that I have been on a few short trips I feel more confident about a longer trip. I just need to decide where and when to go. 

This summer has been a busy one in my family with a new grandchild, summer golf for the older grandkids and some health concerns that demanded attention. So I spent the first night just camping at my local state park. It gave me some idea of what items I should leave in the camper and where to organize supplies. I also got a good idea of how to deal with the fresh and waste water, awning and electrical. My oldest daughter and two grandkids came and pitched a tent and camped with me so we had quite a bit of fun for such a brief adventure. 

Camping at Fort Massac State Park

After this I decided to drive my van to the Louisville area. My sister was going to be there visiting her daughter who had just had her third son. So I searched out overnight options and got prepared. I found a nice state park in Indiana, Charlestowne State Park, just across the river from Louisville. It was just over 20 miles to my niece's home but one of the closest campgrounds. I was not disappointed in the campground. It was a very large campground and offered some sites with full hook-ups (electric, water and sewer) and others that were electric only. I picked one fairly close to the entrance since I would be driving in and out every day and also close to the showers, wanting to use the park shower instead of getting everything wet in the van. Even by Saturday the campground was over half empty. I had heard that campsites were scarce since Covid began because more people were camping. I'll just say that people are missing out not staying at this park. It was very clean and well maintained, private and close to Louisville. 

I had a wonderful visit with my sister and her family. Getting to know my great nephews was a special treat - such darling boys! Most of the time spent there was family time and not a true vacation or touristy in any way. It was so nice though to have my bed and all the comforts of home traveling with me. 

Soon after this one of my dearest friends called and advised me that there was a hot air balloon festival in southern Illinois. Since she and I are both amateur photographers we thought this would be a great opportunity to get our cameras out and try something different. She suggested camping in Rhoda for the weekend and I readily agreed. I found a campground at Carlyle Lake, Coles Creek Campground. There are several campgrounds there operated by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Two night minimum sealed the deal for us to stay over a second night. Once again I packed the van with food and clothes and we were off. 

The balloon festival was wonderful. As soon as the balloons started filling up we both forgot each other was there and took off snapping pictures right and left. We had sense enough to remember where we last saw each other and headed there when the excitement had ended. Reunited we walked back to the van and headed to the campground. 

The campgrounds have very nice paved sites with electric. A few also had full hook-ups. We were again close to the bathrooms but there was only one shower house and we had to drive to that. Not being close was my error for not checking the website closer. Carlyle Lake is a very large lake and many of the campsites were right on the water. It's a beautiful place and one I'd like to visit again sometime, maybe with a kayak. 

It was a fun weekend. Whether you love photography or not I would encourage anyone to attend a balloon festival if you have the opportunity. It was amazing how quickly they rolled out the balloons, filled them and took off. The announcer at the event said this balloon event was different than most that didn't allow spectators to get up close to the balloons. We could walk up and touch them if we wanted and talk to the crew who seemed happy to answer questions. The second night we visited the festival we stayed for the "glow." As it begins getting dark the balloons are filled but stay on the ground. Then they fire them up according to what the announcer says, either a steady burn or flicker. It was truly beautiful to watch. 

Overall I'm loving the opportunity that the campervan provides. Many people live in them full time but I like being home with my family too so I don't think full time van life will ever be for me. I'm hoping this van will be a good opportunity to get my husband and the dogs out traveling more too. Although living quarters would be a little crowded with all of us it would get us from point A to B easily and comfortably. Maybe I'll get to cross some more states off my list with Rhoda. 

Living History Season Begins

Spring is here and all my living history friends have been anxious to pack up their tents and other odd accoutrements and meet somewhere historical for a taste of life past. My chosen era is the French and Indian War which is the North American portion of the global Seven Years War. 

One war tends to lead to other wars in the 18th century. The War of Austrian Succession was the precursor to the Seven Years War and was a conflict to determine who would inherit the Habsburg monarchy. It seems to have been the practice for monarchs to marry off sons and daughters to establish alliances with other countries. Consequently, when a monarch passed without heirs there were any number of near relatives from many countries that wanted to claim their right and were willing to fight for it. Wouldn't it have been easier if they'd been allowed to marry for love? 

Anyway, the War of Austrian Succession ended in 1748 leaving many issues unresolved. Britain, France, and Spain were still arguing about their colonies in North America and the Caribbean. In Europe there were territorial disputes between Austria, Germany and Prussia. Needless to say the Seven Years War was actually the first World War for all accounts. Battles were fought on the North American continent, Caribbean islands, and in Europe. 

After a few centuries of colonization, Britain had established colonies mainly on the eastern coast, east of the Appalachian mountains. Conditions were getting crowded and some adventurers looked westward and saw the land of opportunity. The problem was that the French already considered that area to be under their control. The French had not colonized this area with many permanent settlements but used this large area for trading purposes. They had established settlements in the north (Canada) but primarily were content for the hunters and trappers as well as Native Americans to supply furs and other trade items obtained from this area to France. 

The noted beginning of the French and Indian War in North America actually was started by none other than George Washington. Then an inexperienced 22 year old serving in the British Army, he and native allies of the British ambushed a French diplomatic party. The previous "disagreement" turned into all out war after this lasting until the Treaty of Paris in 1763. France lost the war and with it they lost most of the lands they had claimed. 

Admittedly, this is a greatly oversimplified view and may not stand up to serious fact checking. My purpose is only to peak your interest and not supply you with details that must be footnoted. The history is really very interesting and I encourage readers to find out more. Most historians will say that the War for Independence may not have been fought if it were not for the French and Indian War. 

The local state park near my home, Fort Massac, was the last French fort built in North America. Although it saw no conflicts during the war it has an interesting history and is the reason that the local group of reenactors of which I belong portray French military, allies, camp followers, and habitants (locals). We get together monthly at the park to demonstrate various things about life during the mid 18th century when the Fort was built. We also love to travel to other sites with history dating to the French and Indian War to camp and interpret our roles to the public. 

We recently returned from Fort Toulouse National Historic Park in Alabama. This was the first camping event we had participated in this year. While this is a small event it was a lot of fun. The park has replica French and American forts, Mississippian Indian mounds, a small gift shop/visitor center, hiking trails, river access and a campground. The weather was perfect, sunny and warm but breezy enough to be comfortable. It takes quite a bit of time, effort and expense to participate in events such as this but the rewards are worth it to me. 

The location for the event is about as far as I would be willing to travel as it took us a full day to get there counting stops along the way. Arriving later in the afternoon we had enough time to set up our camp and head to town for dinner. We had also allowed ourselves an extra day before the event started to check out the park and scour any local antique stores for bargains. Several of us came away with some good deals on items we could add to our living history "kit". 

Fort Toulouse has a much larger event in early November known as Frontier Days, but this one was perfect for getting used to our gear again after being stored away for the winter and catching up with some fellow reenactors we see only at events. The French Fort is inhabited during the event by demonstrators of various skills and occupations and is the site of cannon and firearm demonstrations. There is also a Native village just outside the Fort where those portraying Natives camp. Sitting around a campfire at night, sharing stories, cooking over a fire, taking walks on the grounds and in the park, taking pictures and learning history are activities I love. I am so glad to have become a part of this group of people that seem to love all the same things as I do. We were even treated by the Alabama Dutch Oven Society with a Dutch Oven Gathering (DOG) of delicious foods.  

 

We were sad for the event to end on Sunday and began our packing up. Because of the long drive we were allowed to stay in the barracks in the Fort on Sunday night to get an early start driving home the next day. I had not stayed in historic barracks on a rope bed with a straw tick mattress before. I have to say it was a little dark and damp and we laughed as we went to bed about all the dangers we might encounter in the night. But we slept well enough and were up early to start the long ride home (with a few additional antique shop stops) and planning of our next living history adventure. 

Travels in Time

I have finally finished cleaning, reorganizing and packing away my living history gear from my recent event. I was happy to get back to one of my favorite pastimes. Last year almost all events were cancelled and I was only able to attend one public event. So when the opportunity to travel to Indiana for the Bridgeton Rendezvous presented itself I quickly talked some friends into going and we were not disappointed. 

When we arrived in Bridgeton I realized I had visited this charming place before. My husband and I had explored many of the covered bridges in this area several years ago. Bridgeton is a very small historical town in Indiana southwest of Indianapolis. Indiana boasts many covered bridges and the Bridgeton covered bridge is famous for the only bridge over a waterfall which makes for very scenic photos. The current bridge was rebuilt in 2006 following a fire that destroyed the bridge. 

At the foot of the waterfall is another notable historic building, the Bridgeton Mill. This is the oldest continually-operating mill in the midwest and has been family owned since 1823. The current owner continues the ongoing restoration while milling corn and wheat with 200 year old French Buhr stones. Samples of his milled products are available for purchase as well as other small items in the Mill store. 

The sleepy town of Bridgeton was placed on the National Register Historic District in 1992 and boasts shops, homes, an original 1822 log cabin, post office and other buildings. Many shops are only open on weekends during the summer or during festivals. The Bridgeton Covered Bridge Festival which begins the second Friday in October and lasts 10 days is the biggest event of the year with approximately 2 million people reportedly visiting the area. 

The event that drew our attention was the Bridgeton Rendezvous, a re-enactment of the 1750s to 1840s time period. The event is hosted by the Case family and centered around the original Case 1822 Log Cabin. In addition to vendors selling period appropriate items there were also activities for the reenactors to participate in such as a black powder shoot, bow shoot, skillet throw, Friendship fire and a shared meal. 

We arrived on Thursday afternoon to set up our tents and unload our supplies. The weather forecast predicted near freezing temps that night and some rain over the weekend but I was prepared. It was a little chilly that night but I slept well underneath multiple layers of wool blankets. When I awoke one of my fellow campers had already started the fire and made the coffee. Thank you Scottie!!!

Most events such as this host a "schooldays" on the Friday before the event with local school children attending. Unfortunately it was cancelled this year so we dressed in our 18th century finest and walked the historic streets to scope out the town and mill. We talked with the owner of Bridgeton Mill and learned the history of the building and what work is taking place in the restoration, purchased buckwheat flour, muffin mix and blueberry syrup. The owner gifted us a sample of the buckwheat pancake mix. This made for a very tasty breakfast the following day. 

We also talked with Celia Case who had been the one to invite us to this event when we met her last year. Her family owns the 1822 log cabin which is original to the county but has been moved to the current site. The cabin was built by her great grandfather and has been in the family ever since. During the event she informed visitors about the history of the cabin and town, cooked on the hearth and directed the events. 

The other reenactors were all well known to each other but a friendlier group of people you could not imagine. We must have interacted with each and every one as they stopped by our camp to say hi and share stories or information. 

Also present at this event was a couple that I have seen at previous events. They are always entertaining and provide portrayals of several different personas. This weekend they were present as Parson John and Maggie Delaney, his indentured servant. She gave a presentation in which she told her story as an Irish immigrant that arrived in the colonies as an indentured servant with her family and all the hardships she had endured. It is a very moving story and based on historical accounts. Parson John delivered a religious service on Sunday morning with a good message. A few years ago I encountered this couple portraying body snatchers. They do such a fantastic job portraying first person characters that I follow them on Facebook and watch their videos on YouTube. You can find them on Facebook by searching "Parson John & Maggie" and a search on YouTube of "Maggie Delaney" will provide several videos of Maggie's impersonations. 

As always some of the best times during these events is sitting around a campfire late at night talking with friends, eating food cooked over the campfire and spending time with like-minded people who enjoy history and realize the importance of it. We learned that onions roasted in the coals make a tasty treat and you can't always count on weather reports as, thankfully, the rain held off all weekend. 

Too soon, Sunday afternoon arrived and we had to take down our tents, pack our gear and start the long drive home. As I usually do following the fun I try to reorganize and reassemble my gear in a more efficient manner for the next event knowing full well that there is no perfect way to pack for these events. This took me a few days and then I have to rest up and begin thinking about the next Reenactment!

You may have events similar to this in your area. I encourage you not only to attend but interact with those that are portraying historical characters. We love to tell our story or give you information that you may not have learned in school. And although we can never know exactly what it was like to live in another time we can gain some perspective of what they experienced in day to day life. 

Scottie and Bob at the Case Cabin

me in front of our camp

Our gang

camp of a voyageur

Celia Case at Skillet Throw

Chicken on the hearth

Spinning demonstration

Hand knitted caps and other goods

Links for further information: 

http://www.bridgetonindiana.com/attractions/index.htm

https://www.coveredbridges.com/covered-bridges