Backpacking the Porkies!

The Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, otherwise known as "the Porkies," lies on the southwestern shore of Lake Superior in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. It contains not only the beautiful shores of Lake Superior but also some rare virgin forest. While the park's title mentions mountains, the peaks are technically not mountains with the highest peak topping out at 1,958 feet. But these peaks can still challenge many a hiker or backpacker that wants a workout. The name "porcupine" is derived from the descriptions the first Natives gave to the appearance of the ridges that sloped to the lake. Initially the area was noted to have abundant hunting and trapping opportunities for the fur trade. When this became less lucrative, the settlers turned to mining copper and timber production. A park was made in 1941to preserve some of the remaining old growth timber in the area with the final act establishing it as a wilderness park in 1972. 

I knew very little about the Porkies when I decided I wanted to visit. I talked with my daughter, Amy, about possibly backpacking in the park. This is a favorite pastime of hers and something I have enjoyed in years past, so we were both excited to plan a trip. We settled on a loop trail of approximately 28 miles along Lake Superior Trail, Little Carp River Trail, to Mirror Lake and Lake of the Clouds before returning. This would take us 5 days walking and 4 nights in the backcountry. We arrived late on a Sunday evening and stayed in an established campground the first night with plans for an early start the following day. 

It had rained on us on the trip there and for a short time after arriving. I learned days later that certain winds and rain will bring in the black flies. And conditions must have been ideal for them because they were swarming everywhere. 

Undaunted, we arose fairly early, went for breakfast and then checked into the Ranger Station to notify them and obtain our tags. Then we were off to the trailhead for our adventure. 

   

        

 

The park is a beautiful place, and the backcountry sites are pretty private. The first two we stayed at were right on Lake Superior. The trails were the worse for a rainy spring and summer, so we spent over half our time trying to stay out of the mud which was the soupiest mud I've ever had traipse through. We found it to be pretty much impossible to avoid even jumping from rock to root to rock to root!

By the second morning I realized I had overestimated my backpacking abilities. What once I could easily do was not so easy anymore! The hiking was more difficult due to the mud and this may have contributed somewhat to my achy, tired body. Add in a few hundred thousand mosquitos, sleeping on the ground, and an injury to my pride (I fell like a turtle on it's back in the mud), and I was ready to announce on day 3 that I needed to find a trailhead before we got so deep in the forest we had no options. My daughter had been worrying about me (or my abilities) and agreed. A review of the map and we walked to the nearest trailhead about 4 miles away. 

Next, we encountered the problem of getting back to the original trailhead where our car was parked. One problem at a time. Did I mention that there is almost no cell service in the Porkies? Fortunately, my daughter has an emergency satellite communicator, and she was able to contact her husband back home. After about 2 hours an elderly man named Jim arrived to take us to our car. The Porkies is a big wilderness park with few roads, so we had to drive around the perimeter of the park to return, taking about an hour and a half. I learned a lot of information about the area firsthand from Jim who had lived there all his life running a wrecker service. We finally made it back to our car, found lodging in a nearby hotel for the night, showered, ate and generally felt much better. 

Still feeling guilty that I was a quitter, I wanted to hike the next day to see the Lake of the Clouds, one of the features the park is known for. So, refreshed from a good night's sleep we drove back to the same trailhead to walk the end of the trail we had previously planned. It was a beautiful day and we enjoyed walking on dry trails, picking wild blueberries to snack on, and taking photos at the many beautiful overlooks to the lake. 

Another restful night and we packed up to begin heading home. Our first stop was going to be at Lambeau Field in Green Bay, Wisconsin. My daughter has long been a Packers fan and I couldn't imagine traveling so close and not stopping to check it out. 

We were anxious to get home to the rest of the family after this. It was a very special trip despite the black flies, mosquitoes, muddy trails, etc. I'm not sure what memories my daughter will keep from this, but it will definitely be memorable!

I should never say never but, when I quit, I thought that would be my last backpacking attempt. Today I'm not so sure. I may give it a go again if the conditions are right and it's good company. Until then I think I'll stick to my pilgrimage walks where I have a bed every night and food every few miles!

For park reservations call 1-800-44PARKS 24 hours before arrival 

or online www.midnrreservations.com

You can reserve sites 6 months in advance. Campsites, cabins, yurts, and backcountry sites are all available. 

Time Flies ...

Where has the time gone? I looked back and realized I haven't written anything since late May. I can't believe how busy and also how sedentary I can be in retirement. Since May I've been working in my herb garden, planning a demonstration for my living history activities, visiting my sister in Reno, playing with my grandchildren, golfing, photographing, and I continue to walk 3 miles most days. 

Grandkids enjoying the pool

My visit to Reno was so much fun. The weather was great and I got to spend quality time with my sister and her husband. They are both retired and have recently moved and are still trying to settle in. So far they have done a great job of reducing the clutter in their life and creating a homey space for themselves and their family. We took a few days hiking in the nearby area. Our first trip was to Galena Creek Regional Park just outside of Reno. We hiked through scenic woods on the Jones Creek Loop trail. There was enough ups and downs along with the higher altitude that it didn't take me long to get a little winded. 

Galena Creek hike

Some days later we drove toward California. We stopped at the small town of Truckee and wandered the streets where our curiosity led us into many interesting shops and museums. This venture was followed by the search for a short hike nearby. After one failed attempt we ended up at Donner Memorial State Park in the Sierra Nevada Mountains for a hike. The park has camping, picnicking and a very large lake now known as Donner Lake, named after the ill-fated Donner party. We embarked on the Split Rock Loop trail which took us through the woods and to a smaller, very scenic lake called Michel's Pond. On return to our car it was past lunch time so we headed towards Lake Tahoe. We stopped at nearby King's Beach and found some tasty pizza by the lake. There were a lot of people enjoying the water of Lake Tahoe, sunning on the beach or cruising in their boat. It was a delightful day to be at the beach. I will definitely keep Lake Tahoe on my list for further exploration when I have the opportunity since one day was not nearly enough. We also explored the city of Reno a little, did some shopping, ate out a few times but mostly the trip was aimed at having time with family. And family time was the most enjoyable of all. From playing games with my great nephew to family cookouts to talks long into the night about times past, I could not have had a better visit. 

My sister & brother-in-law at Michel's Pond

Michel's pond

Once I returned home I quickly resumed my summer routine which centers a great deal around the grandchildren. Junior golf requires several of us to chaperone the kids around the golf course. This is usually followed by time in the pool. My oldest granddaughter is also playing on a Junior PGA league this year so that is extra time golfing with her. Throw in some cookouts and shopping expeditions and the days pass quickly. 

In addition to all the joy of time spent with the grandkids,  I have been working at developing a display of my herbs as medicines for my reenacting events. I have dabbled at this in the past but my attention runs from one thing to another and the idea had gotten lost a few years back while I was pursuing other things. My current motivation to resume my herbal work came when I was gifted a simple wooden box that I thought would make a suitable container for my bottles of herbs. A quick search at home brought forth the bottles and other items I had been saving just for this. It is such a peaceful pastime for me to pick and hang herbs to dry or bottle the dried herbs that I wonder I get anything else accomplished. In fact, today my beeswax beads arrived and I'm itching to make some ointments with herbal oils. I've also written up an informational sheet on the herbs that I have plus a few others that were readily available in the 18th century along with their historic uses. Hopefully this weekend will remain dry and I can spread out all my "simples" and find a willing listener. I'll try to elaborate more on this in a future post. 

There are other times where I just don't do a lot at all. It hasn't taken me long to relearn how to relax and do nothing. Having an afternoon just walking through the park with my camera or reading a book is activity enough some days. It's so easy to put things off for tomorrow when you don't have work obligations taking up so much of your time. Still, I had a lot of things I wanted to accomplish so now and then I have to make myself a list to get back on track and keep from being overly idle. 

Time and summer hasten by. The days are getting shorter now but are still plenty long for so many summer activities. Now is the season of festivals and fairs. I have no upcoming travel plans so any trips taken must be local and spur-of-the-moment. Thankfully, I can do spur-of-the moment now. When the weather begins to cool I expect I will want to be back camping and hiking, attending living history events and enjoying the retired life. Since I left work I have not looked back nor regretted the decision to retire one time. My work friends are now just friends that I cherish and keep in touch with in other ways. With each day I will continue to live the dream!

Donner Lake

Lake Tahoe

Me at Lake Tahoe

Me in Truckee

Truckee, California

Wildflowers at Galena Creek

More wildflowers at Galena Creek

Kentucky's Red River Gorge

We have just returned from Red River Gorge in east-central Kentucky located just south of Lexington.  I can't recall how this wonderful park first came to my attention but I'm so happy that it did. Last year I had no idea such a beautiful, unique place existed so close to home.

Red River Gorge sits within the Daniel Boone National Forest. The area has been designated as a National Natural landmark mostly due to the over 150 natural sandstone arches scattered throughout the park. This is the only area east of the Rocky Mountains that has as many natural arches.

Rock climbers flock to the Red River Gorge to climb the numerous sandstone cliffs, many over 200 foot high. I have never tried this type of activity but I can certainly understand the appeal. The website boasts that this is a world renowned area for climbers. Not having any practical experience in this area I will share the website for anyone that may have an interest to explore this further.  Visit Red River Gorge Kentucky | Red River Gorge

As you may recall, some of my interests are hiking and photography. I was certainly pleased with the opportunities available at Red River Gorge for these activities. I had only enough time to stir up my interest so hopefully a longer visit can be planned sometime soon. 

Many of the trails in the park are short and fairly easy hikes leading to a notable feature such as an arch, bluff, waterfall or overlook so there is something for any skill level. There are also some backcountry camping opportunities for backpackers. In fact the Sheltowee Trace winds through the park providing a long distance through-hike of 319 miles. There are longer day hikes with varying levels of danger and ability for those that seek more adventurous paths. On my recent brief trip I managed only a few of the shorter hikes and I'm looking forward to returning for a taste of the more adventurous ones soon. 

In addition to hiking, many people enjoy fishing and kayaking the rivers and streams that meander throughout the park. My grandson had to try his hand at fishing in the stream that flowed through the campground. He wasn't the only one enjoying this activity. We were camped at Middle Fork campground in Natural Bridge State Resort Park where the waters are stocked with 3000 trout in March, April, May and October each year. Besides the Red River and it's tributaries there are lakes nearby that offer additional opportunities for fishing. 

Kayaking sounded like a fun activity for the grandkids so we booked an underground kayaking excursion through The Gorge Underground (The Gorge Underground - The Coolest Place in the Gorge! Red River Gorge, Natural Bridge Kentucky). This adventure took us to an underground limestone mine that had flooded. We were given basic instructions in paddling along with a helmet, headlight and life jacket then settled into our kayaks for an hour long tour through the mine. The guides were fun and we thoroughly enjoyed it. It stays cool in the mine at 52 degrees so dress appropriately and consider gloves - my hands got very cold! I didn't take my camera or phone with me but I'll share a photo I found online. 

I noticed there was also ziplining available in the park but my youngest granddaughter was too small so we didn't follow up on that. We did take the skylift up to the largest natural arch which was fun. The lift dropped us off near the top of the arch and by walking across you could walk down to the base of the arch where I took the picture at the top of the page. There are many trails nearby leading to overlooks looking out over this beautiful country. Other trails descended back to the parking lot, wandering through the forest which was full of spring wildflowers. 

We love to camp and there are several great campgrounds in the state park and other public campgrounds nearby. Most camp sites in the park included electricity and water and the campgrounds are located near trails and streams. There are other options available for overnight or longer stays. I noted cabins for rent and there were some small motels and the Red River Lodge. On the website there were also treehouses advertised to rent. 

There are not a lot of restaurants within the park and we didn't explore nearby cities having planned to cookout in the campground most of the time. We did visit the Lodge for dinner and it was very good with all-you-can-eat fish or shrimp options the night we were there as well as other taste tempting options. Miguel's Pizza was another popular spot as there was a line out the door whenever we drove by. I learned this was the place for hungry climbers to visit and a primitive campground mostly for climbers is nearby. A Mexican restaurant usually does not disappoint and La Cabana was certainly busy. We were too hungry to wait for a table and missed out this trip. 

I can't write about an area without including something historical. We did take a drive through the Nada tunnel, a 900 foot long, 12 foot wide, 13 foot high logging tunnel built between 1910 and 1912. This tunnel is frequently referred to as the "Gateway to Red River Gorge." We traveled through this one lane tunnel and found a one mile trail to a suspension bridge across the Red River and historic Gladie Center.  The Gladie Visitor Center was closed and seemed to have been closed for sometime. The website says it is temporarily closed due to Covid. We were able to walk around the grounds and could tell this could be an interesting stop once reopened. It contained an authentic log home and barn full of period farm machinery. Signage told the story of those that had lived there. 

(forgot to take a picture so this is borrowed from the internet)

Living in southern Illinois amidst the Shawnee National Forest and having made frequent trips to the Smoky Mountains I thought this area was a great mix of both regions. With higher elevations than found in southern Illinois and many water features it had an amazing resemblance to the Smoky Mountains. As we hiked through the woods the trails were lined with rhododendron which hinted at how beautiful this area would soon be when these beauties were blooming. While this area shared many features of the Smoky Mountains, the rocky bluffs, deciduous forest and spring wildflowers had the familiarity of home and like the Shawnee Forest there thankfully was a lack of crowds and commercialism. But the natural sandstone arches make this region unique in it's own right and well worth a visit. I hope this will encourage you to explore this treasure or visit a local treasure wherever you may live. Sometimes the best places are right in your own backyard. 

my daughter and grandkids

Hidden Arch

Mining for gems

 

on the suspension bridge

on the sky lift

Hiking to Mt. LeConte Lodge

Years ago when my children were smaller we took a few trips to Mt. LeConte Lodge for an overnight. My oldest daughter just turned 39 and it was her wish to go back and stay with her kids. So last weekend that is what we did. 

Mt. LeConte is a mountain located in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. It is the third highest peak in the park at 6,593 feet. The LeConte Lodge sits near the peak and contains primitive cabins, a dining lodge and office. Dinner and breakfast are served to all guests staying overnight in one of the cabins as well as hot chocolate or lemonade in the afternoon on arrival. Single cabins hold 4-5 persons with a double bunk and some with an additional twin bed. There are a few larger cabins with multiple bunk rooms that hold up to 13. There is no running water, bathrooms or even electricity in the cabins. There is an oil lamp, gas heater and a bucket and wash basin for your use. Hot water is available near the kitchen and drinking water near the office. There are flush toilets for guest's use. Day hikers have access to the pit toilets only. 

Sounds very picturesque and I'm sure some of you are thinking this sounds nice for an overnight and wondering how to get there. That's the hard part. The Lodge is only reachable by foot. There are no roads leading there. Several trails are available to take ranging from 5 to 9.1 miles and 2,700 to 4,600 feet up. Some trails have a small amount of downhill but you have to hike up to get there. 

Now, I'm a good walker. I could walk all day on flat land or even with a gentle rise and fall in the trail. But this about did me in this year. I was not nearly in as good a shape as I needed to be to tackle the ascent but I did make it without having to send for a ranger. The last mile or so was definitely beyond difficult. Having arrived I was happy to find the rocking chair on the porch of our cabin and sit. Thankfully, the kids were only too happy to fetch the lemonade or hot chocolate for me. 

When we visited here 25+ years ago we went to the dining hall for meals and met fellow hikers and had a wonderful time. This year was different due to Covid 19 restrictions. The meals were brought to our cabin which seemed like a lot of problems for the staff but they didn't seem to mind. The food was delicious after hiking all day (it took me just over 6 hours to get there). Roast beef, mashed potatoes with gravy, green beans, fried apples and a chocolate chip cookie bar is always on the menu. On check-in you can opt for wine with your meal. It's all you can drink for one price. In the morning it was pancakes, scrambled eggs, sausage and grits. Coffee was available before breakfast was served. 

When you're tired you generally have no problem sleeping and it worked for me this trip. My bed was comfortable and the cabin was warm despite the cooler temps on top of the mountain (low 50s). It was very cozy with clean sheets and wool blankets. They warned us that mice could get into the rooms and to hang or store any food appropriately. I did wake to some plastic rustling in the middle of the night. Whether that was a mouse or just the kids up late and snacking I'll never know but I didn't lose any sleep over it. 

As we tucked ourselves in for the night it had begun to drizzle. The Smoky Mountains is a rain forest and Mt. LeConte has an average rainfall of 85 inches per year. This year they have already recorded over 76 inches. The rain pattered on the roof off and on all night and continued into the morning. We were advised to take a different trail down due to the amount of rain that had fallen overnight. The trails were similar in distance and elevation so we took their advice. 

With ponchos on we started our descent. My husband had texted saying "It's all downhill from there". That may sound like a good thing but really it's not. Continuous downhill hiking is so hard on the joints that I question if it wasn't more difficult than the uphill. Hard to say but it wasn't any easier and once again I found myself pushing to finish on weak legs and painful joints. We descended only a little faster finishing at about 5 hours. The rain stopped after about an hour on the trail but the fog had set in and there were not many views on the way down as we had seen hiking up. But I made it back to the car without being carried out on a stretcher so that's something. 

You might be wondering, "Why would anyone want to do that?" I can't answer that simply because there are so many reasons. The beauty of the trails, the physical challenge, time with my daughter and grandkids away from video games and other conflicts, love of the mountains - all seemed good reasons to me. Despite how difficult it was for me this trip I'm so overjoyed to have made this trip at least one more time. My only regret is that I didn't prepare myself for the strenuous hiking that had to be done. When I last made this trip 25 years ago it didn't seem that hard so I didn't worry too much. I had been walking at home and felt comfortable with a 6-7 mile distance. I found out quick enough that 25 years has taken some toll on my abilities. Would I try it again? Definitely! But next time I would take a little easier trail and get myself in better shape before attempting it. 

As I mentioned there are several trails to the top of Mt. LeConte. One of the most popular is Alum Cave Trail which is 5 miles, 2,700 feet up and 100 feet down. Some parts of the trail are very steep. This is the shortest trail and one of the most used. We intended to take Trillium Gap Trail which is 6.7 miles, 3,300 feet up and 100 feet down. This is the trail used by the llamas which bring new supplies three times a week to the Lodge and is considered to have the most gradual ascent. We didn't read our directions well enough and stopped at the Rainbow Falls Trail instead. This trail is 6.7 miles, 3,900 feet up and 100 feet down. It is also a very popular trail but is noted to be one of the most strenuous. On our return we took the Bull Head Trail which is 6.9 miles, 4,000 feet up and 150 feet down. Both these trails can be accessed from the same parking lot. Other trails include the Boulevard Trail which is 8.1 miles with 2,700 feet up and 1,300 feet down and the Brushy Mountain Trail which is 9.1 miles, 4,600 feet up and 100 feet down. 

Overall this is a wonderful trip to take and I highly recommend it if you're a nature lover and your health allows. More information about the lodge and reservations can be made on their website: http://www.lecontelodge.com/reservations/

Typically if you have a reservation you are entitled to the same date year to year. A lottery for unused dates occurs sometime around the first of the year if you've never been before. You can also visit http://www.highonleconte.com/trail-guide.html for daily weather information and blog post as well as a trail guide.  

Happy Birthday!

Shawnee National Forest - A local treasure

Spring weather can be a beautiful time to get outdoors and visit natural areas near to home. I'm lucky to live in the heart of the Shawnee National Forest. 

Growing up in this area the Shawnee Forest has always been there, a part of my life. As a child and young adult I spent many days camping, hiking, horseback riding and riding ATVs in the woods of southern Illinois. When I was younger I noticed the beauty of the place but I think I failed to fully appreciate it. As I got older and busier with kids and work I had less and less time for adventures in the woods. I took my kids when they were younger but they reached that age where trips with Mom weren't the most desired and friends won out. At least I instilled a love of nature in them while they were young that seems to have continued to this day. Then I was busy with work and returning to school for an advanced degree. My interests evolved into other activities and I rarely camped, hiked or visited the Shawnee Forest. Thankfully my daughter is now trying to teach her children the joys of nature and I've been drawn back into it. Now I'm rediscovering my love of the outdoors and time spent in nature. 

A few weeks ago I went with my daughter and her kids to Rim Rock Trail in Southern Illinois just east of Garden of the Gods. There is a shorter loop hike that returns you back to the trail head or you can go further and hike to Pounds Hollow Lake which is the trail that we took. I can't believe in all the years I've lived in this area that I have never been to either of these two places before. 

The shorter loop hike is 0.8 miles and paved. This hike is less strenuous but includes remnants of a stone wall built by prehistoric natives, an observation deck and some interpretive signs. A small picnic area and pit toilets are located near the parking lot at the beginning of the trail. 

At the observation deck you can choose to descend stairs to the lower trail that leads to Pounds Hollow lake. On descending the stairs you weave through the rocks like a "fat mans squeeze" until you reach the lower trail. This trail is unpaved and wanders along the base of the bluffs for over a half mile. On the way to the lake you will see Ox Lot Cave. An interpretive sign indicates this is where 19th century loggers kept their horses and oxen but I'm sure it was used for shelter by people for many years prior to that. 

The trail continues and gradually leaves the bluffs and meanders along the lakeside. The trail eventually opens out into the Pounds Hollow recreational area. There is a designated swimming area roped off with a sandy beach and a dock. This area can also be reached easily by the road with a parking lot up a flight of stairs from the beach. Just above the beach is a covered picnic area and toilets. All toilet facilities were closed when we visited due to Covid-19. 

The hike from Rim Rock trail head to Pounds Hollow lake and back was about 3 miles. On our return we took an alternate trail that wound around the other side of the rocky bluffs before returning to the parking lot. The scenery is beautiful and the hiking has moderate elevation changes and some steps. There are small streams with bridges to cross over and cliff overhangs to explore if you dare. 

If you're interested in directions or more information about Rim Rock Trail you can view the USDA trail information here:  

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/shawnee/recarea/?recid=10691  

Or Shawnee Forest has hundreds of other beautiful trails throughout southern Illinois offering both day hiking and backpacking adventures. Paper trail maps are available at Ranger stations which are now closed. I ordered mine by downloading the order form from this website: 

https://www.fs.usda.gov/main/shawnee/maps-pubs. Alternative apps for smartphones are also available with trail maps and information. 

Last week it was back to the trails for more time in nature. This time I went with a friend and our cameras. I was trying to figure out settings on my camera while enjoying the day with a great friend in a beautiful setting. We chose to hike at Fern Cliff State Park which is also part of Shawnee National Forest. There are many hiking trails to choose from with plenty of scenic interest including bluffs, waterfalls and lakes. It was a fun day and I got some good photography practice. Hiking ended with a picnic lunch lakeside before returning home. 

Fern Cliff is a beautiful state park near Goreville, Illinois that includes a campground and several picnic areas. Available activities include hiking, backpacking, rock climbing, hunting and fishing.  Reservations for the campground like all Illinois state park campgrounds can be made through the Reserve America website. Additional information is available on their website https://www2.illinois.gov/dnr/Parks/Pages/FerneClyffe.aspx. 

Please remember to be safe in your hiking adventure. Due to the remoteness of many of these locations rescue is not always quick. Every year I read of persons falling off cliffs or getting lost and just this morning I read of a car overturned on one of these remote roads. Aside from this are other risks from weather, wildlife, plants, etc. I don't write this to scare anyone away from all that Shawnee Forest has to offer but to advise that with proper planning and preparation you can make unforgettable memories with your family or friends. 

"And into the forest I go, to lose my mind and find my soul."

John Muir